Wednesday, 24 August 2016

Sewn: Butterick 6178, New Look 6459

Sewing Dare complete! Thanks to the amazing Gillian over at Crafting a Rainbow, I have branched out and made culottes, undoubtably the pant silhouette of 2016. Here's the dare:  "I”m going to dare you to sew up a trouser style that is a little new and different! Maybe culottes, maybe fashion jogging pants, maybe flares, loose rayon trousers?" 

Well Gillian, here they are! These are Butterick 6178, a basic culotte pattern with either voluminous pleats or a more simple shape (my choice, View D).

Many of the patterns that I am drawn to are very easy fitting, with elastic waistbands (or no discernible waist at all - overalls, anyone?). So, when it came time to cut something with an actual fitted waist, I made a muslin. My waist and hip put me in a size 18, so I went ahead and cut them out, with my only alteration to lengthen the crotch depth by 1/2". Much to my surprise, the muslin fit very well, so I cut into my good fabric.

I'm not sure what to call this colour - acid gold? I was looking for more of a mustard yellow, but didn't have much luck. So, since this was a dare, I just went for a bold colour in fabric that took my fancy. It's a crisp cotton sateen, that I pre-washed & hung to dry. It was nice and smooth before I washed it, and now it's full of tiny wrinkles that won't press out. Bummer.

A couple of things bug me now that these are together about the fit - I could definitely shorted the front rise at the waistband by 3/8", as they have a wrinkle there. And I wasn't sure about the darts, I thought they could all be a bit shorter. But I wore them all day today, and I think the darts are fine. But one thing I did notice after wearing, is that I'd like to transfer about 1/2" from the front side seam to the back. I just feel that the side seam is not quite at my side!

Not entirely sure what has my attention down there...

The pattern called for a regular zipper, but I just could not find one in the right colour, and went for a beige invisible zip instead. Honestly, I much prefer invisible zips, so no problems there.

Of course, after I had made these beauties up, I couldn't find any tops to wear with them! Most of my boxy tops are just a bit too long, hitting me at a tough spot in these voluminous pants. So, what's a girl to do? Make a top to go with, naturally!

The top I decided on is New Look 6459, modelled on the cover with the coordinating cropped pant - perfect. For this one, I did not make a muslin, instead jumping right into the size 16. I did check the finished measurements, but ended up recutting the front (after the facings were on and everything), and cutting a new one with a full bust adjustment. I wish I had a "before" photo for you, because it was pretty disheartening. gaping armholes, tight across the front (and the back a bit, too). Sadness! I knew it would never be worn, and I had enough fabric for a new front. I've resolved to embrace pattern adjustments in the future.

The fabric for the top is a heavy weight white blend,with a pique effect on one side and a slight stripe on the other, with a bit of stretch. I cut my pattern on the cross grain (no doubt not helping the tightness across the back) so that my stripes would run horizontally. I really like the crisp fabric for this pattern, and can picture it looking great in a barkcloth. If one crosses my path...

I love this armhole shape!

So, there we have it, sewing dare complete, bonus garment to boot!

Thanks Gillian for pushing us all to try new things, and for the incredible job you do machine the dared to the dare! I'm calling this a success.

Has anyone else taken on a sewing dare?

**big shout out to NB for taking these pics! Thanks!

Tuesday, 2 August 2016

Sewn: Style Arc Maggie Shirt

Hold on to your hats - there's more than a hint of colour here! This is the Style Arc Maggie shirt, and it is wonderful.

 I've had my eye on this pattern for a couple of years now, it's a style that's always appealed to me: short grown on sleeves, simple stand collar, yoke, and the icing on the cake, a half placket.

So I had been keeping this pattern in the back of my mind for a while, when I remembered this great fabric that I picked up last summer while visiting friends in Stockholm. The print is big and bold, and I could finally picture the Maggie in action.

The fabric is very silk-like, but I'm fairly certain it's polyester. But it's beautiful, and feels great against the skin. Cutting, however, was a bit of a trial, as I had only 1 metre, it's very slippery, and I cut on the floor. (Side note, this is the size 12, and my fabric was 60" wide - a larger size would not have fit). Naturally, after carefully placing the pieces, I reversed the right and left front, and now the tricksy placket is on the wrong side, but at that point, I just went with it. The print is busy enough to hide my mistake!

Oh, the placket - I spent a good hour trying to figure it out by folding the paper pattern this way and that, searching (fruitlessly!) for information online, and finally just went for it. It looks just fine, but I'd like to revisit and improve on the method if I make this again! I felt like a contestant on the Great British Sewing Bee, stumped by the lack of step by step illustration! There is a centre front seam, but the placket is part of the right and left side fronts, not a separate piece. I ended up with a raw edge hanging free inside, which seemed as though it should somehow be tucked in. I resorted to fray check and a bit of hand sewing to keep things in place.

Placket innards

It's actually quite long when untucked.

There's a nice inverted pleat at the centre back, too.

All in all I am very pleased with how this turned out, and I would recommend the pattern, just take your time with the placket, and let me know if you've figured out how to finish it off neatly!

Until next time...