I used the same size as my previous knit pair, and I'm happy with the fit. The fabric is a lovely lovely tencel from Leo's here in Toronto. They have it in loads of neutral colours, I was hard pressed to choose! I made one change to the waistband, and created a flat front band from pocket to pocket, using fusible waist banding for a crisp finish. No messing around trying to cut shifty fusible bits for me (I usually only have knit interfacing on hand, I find it good for most projects, but frustrating to cut!). Basically, these are as close to the Eileen Fisher trousers of my dreams without drafting my own as I am likely to get.
|Prepared waistband interfacing - quick and easy!|
It's been a while since I made a white top, but they are one of my wardrobe workhorses, so I was overdue for a new one. This is Butterick 6182, a Lisette pattern. I bought the pattern specifically for the top, the dart placement and boxy shape really called to me.
Now, I did have to make some changes to the the pattern to get it to work for me. I think the finished version does look like the pattern envelope, but it required some tweaking. I originally cut the size 16, according to my bust measurement. However, when I pinned the tissue together to check the length, I discovered that the upper bodice is very very short. I ended up taping the shoulders/neckline back on, and using the size 22 cutting lines to get the bust marking at my actual full bust. The darts sit just below the fullest part, and I think that's a flattering spot for them. If the darts were higher, there would be a definite maternity vibe on me. Even with the additional inch in length from shoulder to bust, I used a band to finish the hem to preserve the body length, and yes, I realize this is a cropped top. It was just too cropped!
For the hem band, I cut a piece 2" deep, the width of the hem, and folded it in half with the right sides facing out. Then I put the band under the raw edge of the top, and stitched it on with two lines of stitching from the right side. The fabric was too thick for the neck binding/facing, so I used a heavy white jersey from my stash instead.
The fabric is a textured white knit, part of last year's Textile Museum haul. It seems like a cotton blend, it's not that quilted poly stuff that was everywhere this winter (which I also love). I was tempted to make a dress out of it, but I love it for this top. There is some left over, so you may see it again, depending on how much there is. It has loads of body, so I was able to turn the sleeve bands up and they stay put.
I'm really happy with how this outfit turned out, and I love these pieces so together so much that I have yet to wear one without the other! But I have no doubt that I will, they are both standouts.