Sewn: McCalls 7608

Hello summer! And hello to my ambitious summer sewing plans, kicking off with a new jumpsuit!

This is McCall's 7608, new for summer 2017. There are 4 views, with three leg lengths and 3 bodice options to choose from. They are easy to mix and match, but I chose View C, unintentionally in a colour very similar to the pattern envelope! The fabric is the absolutely dreamy Tencel Twill II in auburn from Blackbird Fabrics.

I made a full muslin/toile/mock-up, since I was fairly sure I would need to do some fit alterations. I started with a straight size 16, shortening by 1" all the way around at the lengthen/shorten line, and after the first muslin, made a full bust adjustment to the under bodice of approximately 1". The armhole was gaping significantly, and I needed more length in the front. It's kind of funny that I have to shorten patterns, only to add length back in, but it's what works! If I were making View D, I would have worked a bit harder on getting the darts to sit more smoothly, but they are covered by the overlay. Be warned, the line drawing is correct, the darts end almost right at the bust apex. And in the end I went with the back width of the size 18.

The white tracing paper underneath is my finished pattern piece, for comparison.

Then I tackled the overlay. I cut out the 16 without any alterations, and essentially draped right on my body. It's a method that I've resorted to before - can be a bit tricky to pin onto yourself, but effective! The overlay pattern pieces are not quite on the same grain as the bodice base. I adjusted the neckline and shoulder sit on grain with the bodice base, and reduced the fullness by 6". It was just way too much fabric otherwise, and totally swamped me. In the suggested challis or lawn, it might have worked, but not in this mid-weight twill. I left hemming the overlay until the very last step, to get the proportion I wanted.

Can you imagine more volume below the bust? I can, and it was a no-go!

Now to the pants! They required only my usual 1 1/2" addition in length to the rise (but honestly, I could have used another 1/2" in the back, but they're done now!) There is one other crucial but simple change I made - I did not close the pleats. The instructions would have you stitch them closed for about 3", but I need the width right below my natural waist. This way, I can have my cake and eat it too - they fit at the waist, but there isn't excess volume at the hip - well, these are voluminous, but almost 20" of ease is plenty, I found. Even if I were a different shape through the hip, I would probably only stitch the pleats closed halfway, they seem oddly long.

Pants demo.

Hidden released pleats - they sit under the overlay. 

Truly invisible zip - I love them.

Construction was straightforward, but I drafted facings instead of using the full bodice lining called for. It also made handling the layers at the shoulder & neckline less cumbersome, to my mind. They close with an invisible zip at the back. The instructions would have you add a hook and eye at the top, but as I learned last year, that's a bit too awkward of a spot to get to without help, so I finished my zip right at the top.

A glamour shot to show you how much I love these!

On the whole, I really like this pattern, and it's turned out exactly as I had imagined, which always a bonus!

Until next time,

Happy sewing!